Day 11 - Ridge Cache (5,120 mtrs)

Today is our first proper mountaineering after what has more been trekking in the snow so far. There is a steep climb up the headwall near the camp to the ridge above ABC to cache supplies to pick up when we move to High Camp in preparation for our summit bid.

The slope is pretty steep in some sections and there is a fixed rope towards the top which significantly helps with the ascent. This is both from a technical and physical perspective - from those I have seen on the mountain so far, you would think that getting on for 80% or so would not be able to cope with the slope without it. The rope is anchored (fixed the ground) and you are clipped into it as you walk meaning that if you fall you should not go far. This really slows progress down as each team of 4 needs to come to a halt each time someone comes to an anchor.

View back down to ABC

Fixed ropes going up the slope

Top of the headwall

View from the ridge back to ABC

The ridge itself is petty exposed at times ( ie a long drop on one if not both sides) and so we clip the rope we are tied to into caribiners anchored to the mountain when things get really tricky.

There is a bit of wind up here, dropping the temperature significantly, not helped in my case by the fact that given the pace I am standing still for much of the time and therefore I have not managed to build up sufficient body temperature on the climb.  The cache is fairly painless, at the base of Washburn's Thumb at 5,120 mtrs. The very slow rate at which we are ascending the mountain means that there is really no issue with altitude. I can't work out if this is sensible or a little bit like cheating - surely it shouldn't be this easy!

On our descent it appears that our carabiners have all been 'collected' by a Polish team following us. Quite fortunately I am going first at his point and so get to enjoy the opportunity to re-fix parts of our route - jolly exciting with the rather large drops (1,000mtrs +) off to the side of the ridge.

Heading back down

We get back at about 17:30 and the rest of the evening is pretty relaxed - chatting and taking in the marvellous views.

We are not far from the summit how so weather forecasts are increasingly of interest. It seems that tomorrow (rest day) will be good but later on and Monday will be cloudy and snowy with a return to the current clear skies for the middle of the week. Our current plan is to move to High  Camp on Monday (which could now become a challenging day) rest at High Camp on Tues and summit on Weds which should be a good day - here's hoping!!

Food:
Oatmeal - quick and easy for early departure. 
Pizzas - same as before but still pretty good!